Great Bear National Forest - Sacred Spaces, Day 1: Part Two

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Sept 19, 2007 (All Day) - Kynoch Estuary


"Walk into The Rainforest and sense time. Trees that are centuries old soar three hundred feet high, their trunks like pillars in a nave and the light beneath them like that filtered through cathedral glass." - Ruth Kirk, What is the Rain Forest

Old man's beard hangs from an old cedar

Gulls feast on salmon eggs

Looking up the river

Traversing the estuary's edge


Sept 19, 2007 (All Day) - Traipsing up the Kynoch

Ghastly vestiges of salmon lie along shore after spawning

A whole new meaning to "Freeganism"

Dead salmon point upstream towards the spawning grounds

Any last words?

Nutrients from salmon have been found in the treetops of Great Bear showing how much the health and vitality of this region depends on the salmon runs.


Sept 19, 2007 (All Day) - Fishing like a Pro on Kynoch

I saw a man on National Geographic catch a salmon with his bare hands during a salmon run. It was one of my wishes to do the same...Moments later...

HOLY COW! The one-handed tail grab!

I was obviously excited. Even the Bears were impressed.

"Goooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaalllllllllll"

Rob prefers the fishing hook

But he caught this rocking ratfish with mesmerizing emerald eyes. The Kitasoo (xai'Xais) First Nation have some wonderful oral histories about this guy.


Photos compliments of: Summer, Tom, Sherrie

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Sept 20, 2007 - Sacred Pictographs


Great Bear is rich with native history, like the remains of these pictographs on this rock face. Pictographs were often carved with fingers, sticks and tools and then painted with a mixture of plant material and natural fixatives. They often represent the power of nature. The First Nations have been living on this land for centuries - finding these little road signs to a whole other culture made this a very enriching trip.


"People can only live fully by helping others to live. When you give life to friends you truly live. Cultures can only realize their further richness by honoring other traditions. And only be respecting natural life can humanity continue to exist." - Daisaku Ikeda quote, Japanese peace activist and Buddhist Leader, 1928

Photos compliments of: Sherrie

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Great Bear National Forest - Sacred Spaces, Days 2 & 3

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Sept 20, 2007 (All Day) - The Fjordlands


The first morning broke on the placid water. The previous night we docked at a secluded inlet in Jackson Narrows between Jackson Passage and Susan Island. Some of us broke off to kayak. I took to foot to explore the coast line. Spruce, cedar, and hemlock are the principle species - which is what has drawn timber companies here (Note: Great Bear was once called the Midcoast Timber Supply Area and only 2% was protected back in the 1990s. It is now the only intact coastal temperate rainforest left in the world).

One spruce's roots cupped upwards - like two elderly, sun-scarred hands under a water spigot to form a little pool and waterfall. The best environmental landscaper would not be able to re-create something so lovely.

The sun is desperately trying to penetrate the clouds, but just enough to give us some low-hanging haze above our heads. Haze or no haze, it's time to head off to the Fjordlands to see the sheer rockfaces and waterfalls. Magnificent.


"The streams which thread the Pacific Forest tie the land to the sea in an inseparable relationship. Nowhere on the continent are the forest and its inhabitants more dependent upon water." - Gerry Ellis & Karen Kane, An Evergreen Oasis


Sept 20 & 21, 2007 (All Day) - The Waterfalls

Through the fog

One after another

Heading into the waterfall


Sept 20 & 21, 2007 (Morning) - Meet the Grizzlies: Up Close & Personal

Even baby bears get tired too.

Intruder alert

Sushi

Herding along Mussel: Mama and baby girl

The Loch Ness monster of Great Bear

Smoked salmon


Sept 20 & 21, 2007 (Morning-Afternoon) - Kayaking through Grizzlies

Kayaking through bear territory (bottom); Randy watches on (middle); Grizzly with gulls (top)

Approaching grizzly territory...rain lets up

Headed right towards them

"Don't mind me."

Taking off in the kayak for a workout

Kayaking at dusk in Mussel Bay

God's golden light shines in


Sept 21, 2007 (Afternoon) - After the Rain

The rainbow (this was actually a full 180 degree semi-circle - I'll try to upload a shot of it later)


"Walk on a rainbow trail: walk on a trail of song, and all about you will be beauty. There is a way out of every dark mist, over a rainbow trail." - Robert Motherwell



Sept 21, 2007 (Afternoon) - Snail -Killer Carabid

Image borrowed from John Harvey because I didn't get a shot. I feel asleep when the crew brought this fine specimen on the ship for me to ID. It's a snail-killer carabid, closely related to Tiger Beetles. They specialized on slugs and snails, which are quite common around these parts. He became our ship's Mascot for a day and we released him the next morning (next to a big banana slug). You can thank us later, Simon.

Photos compliments of: Sherrie, Tom, Summer

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